The Costello Tagliapietra boys were thinking a lot about the nuts and bolts of construction for Spring. Sure, they’re known for their thoughtful draping, but there was more here. “We were reevaluating—and falling in love with—the way we put together clothes,” said Robert Tagliapietra, who designs the collection with his partner, Jeffrey Costello, after the show. “We wanted to highlight each piece by delineating the lines.” Indeed, there was noticeable attention paid to every seam, particularly at the waist. An olive silk jumpsuit, for instance, was accented with navy leather, a gold jersey dress with tonal grosgrain ribbon. The pleats on the front of a cocktail dress were made to lie flat, creating the subtlest detail. And the backs of many of the dresses—including an ombré V-neck number and a navy-plaid wrap dress—were made with jersey in contrasting colors to achieve a second-skin fit.
Costello Tagliapietra’s color palette was moody and romantic, inspired by Patricia Arquette’s character in David Lynch’s Lost Highway. The hammered petrol-blue brocade silk was particularly Lynchian. Fashioned into a strong-shouldered skirt suit, it belonged on a film noir star. But seasonal musings aside, Costello and Tagliapietra’s work is always very much about the woman wearing it. All of that seaming and décolletage framing is not just for showing off technique: It’s meant to make her feel beautiful.
For Tadashi Shoji, Spring ’15 started in Venice. Specifically Ca’ d’Oro—the famous golden palace that sits right on the Grand Canal. “It was the reflection of the palace on the water that inspired me,” Shoji said at his studio a day before the show. Indeed, the collection appeared to be bathed in a soft glow. For instance, there was a certain warmth to the capped-sleeve cocktail dress made of pink embroidered tulle, and the blush lace tunic with bell sleeves. Gondolier stripes furthered the reference, showing up on a shirtwaist chiffon gown. It could’ve been hokey, but instead those stripes were yacht-party perfect.
One can’t help but think of the red carpet when looking at Shoji’s work, and there were plenty of options on that front, including a grand metallic gold gown with a dramatic floor-length cape, and a navy gown made of pleated georgette with a subtle chain-mesh inset at the waist. But the designer seemed to have the most fun with more casual, stiff-collar pieces, including a lattice-printed top and pleated skirt in periwinkle, as well as a white shirtdress inset with metallic navy lace. Shoji’s take on the traditional trench—made from lace and fitted close to the body like a dress—worked well as an eveningwear topper. The only real misstep in this well-executed collection was a rainbow-pastel lace shirtwaist dress, which was too busy to wear formally and too lacy to pull off for day. But that can be forgiven, given how nice it was to be transported to Venice.
Ryan Adams finally made his new single “Gimme Something Good” public. And as it turns out, that song is the opener on Adams’s new album, a self-titled and self-produced LP that Adams recorded at his own Pax-Am Studios in Los Angeles. The album follows the great 2011 solo album Ashes & Fire, and I recommend going back to that one and listening again. Actually, go back and listen to them all.
Produced by the legendary Glyn Johns, the studio veteran who also helmed Adam’s 2011 “comeback” album Ashes and Fire. “Gimme Something Good,” said to be the first in a series of 7″ vinyl releases, is available digitally for download here.
The new project will also feature producer/guitarist Ethan Johns, who worked with Adams on his Heartbreaker and Gold albums along with Tom Petty sideman Benmont Tench on keyboards, Don Was (aka The Chairman of Blue Note Records) on bass, Cindy Cashdollar on steel guitar and Jeremy Stacey on drums.
“Gimme Something Good” is a moody alternative rock song with a 1980s feel. The single is a little more upbeat and rock-driven than Adams’ previous hits, with its extensive musical breaks featuring an electric guitar and drums. The single also features the above mentioned Tom Petty and The Heartbreakers keyboardist Benmont Tench, British drummer Jeremy Stacey, Jeff Beck’s bassist Tal Wikenfeld, and guitarist Mike Viola, who also helped produce the single. Give the single a listen and tell me what you think!
01 “Gimme Something Good”
04 “Am I Safe”
05 “My Wrecking Ball”
06 “Stay With Me”
08 “Feels Like Fire”
09 “I Just Might”
10 “Tired Of Giving Up”
11 “Let Go”
In support of the release, Adams has announced an initial batch of tour dates.
Ryan Adams 2014 Tour Dates:
07/22 – Portland, ME @ State Theatre
07/23 – Burlington, VT @ Flynn Center for the Performing Arts
07/25 – Newport, RI @ Newport Folk Fest
07/26 – Camden, NJ @ XPoNential Music Festival
08/05 – Aspen, CO @ Belly Up Tavern
08/07 – Boulder, CO @ Fox Theatre
Ryan Adams is out 9/9 on Pax-Am/Blue Note
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