The show started on a note of plainness, with felted wool outerwear in blocked combinations of tan and hunter green. But the drama in the womenswear amped up quickly, with heavily embroidered sculpted skirts and coats giving on to bustier-chested evening dresses topped with gothic black lace. Even the outerwear silhouettes became more vivid: One excellent look was the precisely tailored coat in Black Watch plaid with its dramatic flare. Finally, the last look appeared: a New Look-style dress in white, which nearly matched the pallor of the model wearing it.

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