Tadashi Shoji debuted his Fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection at New York Fashion Week on Thursday, and it was full of classically bold moments.
The 37-look collection featured 35 dresses of varying lengths and silhouettes, textures and colors, with the predominant theme being the celebration of all women’s freedom to dress how they please. In Tadashi’s world, there’s something for every woman.
Jewel tones dominated the show, with deep blues, greens and pinks catching the eyes of the smartphone-wielding crowd at Spring Studios. The designer wasn’t afraid to play around with sheer fabrics, either, which provided a slew of lingerie-inspired evening wear that turned up sexiness in his collection this season.
Perhaps most notably, the designer delivered no less than 12 all-black looks on the runway, which called to mind last month’s Golden Globes when everyone hit the red carpet wearing black in honor of the #MeToo movement sweeping Hollywood.
After the show, Shoji spoke to Reuters and explained that his “bold” and “unapologetic” collection was inspired by the #MeToo and #TimesUp movements and explained how women should be able to dress however they please without worrying about being harassed by men.
Erin Fetherston took a trip around the world for fall, a trek through different cultures and inspirations that were then mixed and matched in a chic, feminine collection. Moroccan references echoed in the color palette with warm spice tones, such as saffron, paprika and turmeric, as well in rich prints that were reminiscent of opulent Indian fabric and shoes inspired by North African pointed slippers. These ingredients helped Fetherston create a charming wardrobe, filled with breezy maxidresses and tunics embellished with tassels that were paired with wide-leg pants for an international globetrotter. The abundance of charming ethnic details were balanced by more urban pieces, such as a relaxed velvet suit and a ribbed turtleneck sweater worn with knitted pants. Despite the lineup’s Seventies’ Bohemian attitude, Fetherston avoided any nostalgic feeling and managed to translate her inspirations into an elegant collection for modern women.
Elie Saab conjured the bygone glamour of the golden age of Egyptian cinema, with the designer citing actress Faten Hamama — in a party scene from film “I Don’t Sleep,” starring opposite Omar Sharif — among inspirations.
The more elaborate gowns in his sparkling, red carpet-oriented collection included a sheer tulle gown with hazy pale blue and silver placement embroidery evoking boats on the river Nile and palm trees, with the silvery fronds of one tree peeking over the sweetheart neckline. Other highlights included a long-sleeved gown in tan satin peppered with deep blue “evil eye” motifs.
Oriental gold embroideries and geometric crystal formations — presented as a surprise feature on the back of a cape, say — were a nice update on the designer’s signature embellishments. Mini crystal tassels and draped chains of gold beads on the bibs of dresses added movement. This is what couture is meant to be.