Marchesa designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig like to filter their vision of femininity through a rose-tinted lens, and today they opened their show on a classically pretty pink note. The overarching inspiration for the collection started with sunrise, and the colors that appear in the sky from dusk to dawn; a paint box of lilac, light blue, and blush pink that was touched at times with an iridescent finish. Aside from the glamorous one-shouldered Grecian dress in shiny gold lamé, the mood was more golden-hour than mid-day sun, a much quieter palette than the neon streaks we’ve seen coursing through the New York collections thus far.
Then again, Chapman and Craig aren’t the kind of designers to follow trends. Their brand of unapologetically frothy, more-is-more eveningwear is planted in the realm of Disney princess fantasy, a world inhabited by their Hollywood fans and friends. With the Emmy Awards tomorrow in Los Angeles, their designs are likely to take the spotlight again. Fashioned with layers of tulle, fringing, and dripping embellishments, the dresses on the runway were laden with attention-grabbing details. If those looks might appear OTT in real life, the 3-D floral finishings and mille-feuille confectionary would likely work well framed by the 360 camera technology being used on the red carpet these days. Whether the most dramatic full-skirted looks and trains would fit into anything other than a stretch limo, though, is another story entirely.
Given his propensity for embellished ball gowns and his mastery of embroidery, it’s easy to forget that Naeem Khan actually cut his teeth as a designer at Halston in the ’70s. Spring 2017 was a reminder of that fact. Drawing upon his experience under the master of American sportswear in the days of disco, Khan opened his show with a series of slinky gowns cut on the bias. It was a departure from his usual outings, but mostly a welcome one, and Khan is one of the few designers who can lay claim to a piece of the Halston heritage. The one-shouldered gown with billowing cape was particularly successful; others, like the monochromatic parachute dress felt like a slight reach for the brand. Many of these looks came in a refreshing palette of red, blue, black, and white—a color combination that appeared intermittently throughout the collection, including on a handful of crochet gowns and a joyful, voluminous ball gown.
But this is a Naeem Khan show, after all, and the early, streamlined looks gave way to embellishment and embroidery, sometimes ingeniously combined, as on a hand-embroidered floral gown that had a layer of tulle hand-beaded with sequins. These, and the romantic bohemian embroidered gowns at the end, were some of the highlights. No doubt we’ll be seeing these on the backs of A-listers soon—perhaps even at the Emmys this weekend. But Khan, who has already pretty much conquered the red carpet scene, also included a few separates that might suit (well-funded) commoners, such as an embroidered blouse with poet sleeves that, the designer pointed out, would look beautiful with jeans.
Designers left and right this week have been talking about the uplifting nature of fashion, but nobody’s left us feeling quite as uplifted as Michael Kors. With his old pal Rufus Wainwright on the mic, crooning Judy Garland’s “Get Happy,” the crowd, which included Sienna Miller and Emily Blunt, was fairly bopping in its seats.
The clothes matched the upbeat mood of the music. Kors gave his signature feminine/masculine plot line a ’40s-by-way-of-the-‘80s twist, conjuring “dames” (his word) from Barbara Stanwyck and Katharine Hepburn, to Kim Basinger. “They were women,” he said backstage, “who were very provocative, very flirty, but also in control.” On the one hand, he had little nipped-waist dresses and peephole-neck jumpsuits in vivid floral prints. And on the other: belted pant suits, a twill trench, and boyish argyle knits. Colors were juicy, like grapefruit pink and lime green, or they were streamlined black, white, and navy. Kors is an equal opportunity optimist, spreading his glass-half-full perspective worldwide. He sent out two versions of a “Love” sweater, a slouchy one for girls, and a snug one for boys; the former is one of a handful of items available for sale now. Among the others was a plunge-front, ruffle-sleeved little black dress—again that dichotomy.