Marissa Webb RTW Spring 2017

Marissa Webb doesn’t seek deep sources of inspiration when it comes to her collections. Webb dresses what she knows—and that is the women around her, specifically the “modern New York woman,” as she stated backstage, after a show whose pieces had a metropolitan polish. Remember the Glastonbury look that was popular during the 2000s—a worn-in, oversize army jacket thrown over a tired-looking baby-doll dress? (Kate Moss wore that muddied festival ensemble time after time). Here there was a city-appropriate incarnation of the field jacket, now elevated by way of a hip-length crop and sculpted, rounded sleeves, styled over a print dress that was pertly buttoned at the neck.

Ruffles played a clever role. Sure, predictably, in some instances they were feminine, like on an amber charmeuse blouse that had ruffles scaling the arms. But when added to a blazer, the wide ruffles went as far as to add a clever structure; they stuck up high, coursing down the sleeves, giving off an air of broad executive power.

Webb also played with waist heights. Low-slung cream trousers in silk became an instant closet staple that could seamlessly go from the boardroom to cocktail hour. The high-waisted leather cropped pants are something to look out for: The ankles had sets of grommets fastened by laces, and a fastened belt caused the extra fabric to bloom upward and gather unevenly past the waist, perfectly flattering the silhouette. It’s not just New York women who’ll love that.

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Yeezy Season 4 a.k.a Torture Continued

From the heavily social media-teased Life Of Pablo album release to the buzzed-about global merch pop-ups that were staged in August, 2016 has proven to be a year of not-so-entirely-surprising Kanye West surprises. And the latest of these predictably unpredictable moves came on Wednesday, when the hip-hop artist and “fashion designer” decided to withhold the location of his Yeezy Season 4 show until three hours before its start time–at which point it was announced to be held at Four Freedoms Park on the tip of Roosevelt Island.

The Siberia of the New York Fashion Week circuit, the often-overlooked sliver of land smack dab in the middle of the East River was accessible by a Kanye-sponsored shuttle (that departed two hours in advance of showtime), the F train or the old-school tram. No matter the option, getting there was a journey for members of the fashion industry and also part of what made the experience feel like a fun wild-goose chase. Until suddenly it wasn’t.

3 p.m. turned into 3:30 and then into 4, and as guests continued waiting in the heat, excitement gave way to restlessness, which ultimately gave way to frustration. Security guards who didn’t know how to handle the timing demanded that the crowd “get back” and “make a line” and then “get back” again. The irony, as one woman pointed out, was that the event wasn’t supposed to feel like West’s Madison Square Garden concert the night before. “We’re not crazed fans,” she exclaimed. “We’re here to see a fashion show!”

And the show, which was once again a collaboration with performance artist Vanessa Beecroft, was an extension of these tensions. Rows of models wearing an assortment of nude body suits — some with cut-outs across the stomach, most with cut-outs across the butt — had to wait in the brutal heat until a second cast of models appeared on the runway. During the wait time, their militaristic formation lost its intensity as some models sat down on the grass, with one woman eventually fainting while a massive set of sub-woofers rumbled.yeezy season 4

But all the while, onlookers couldn’t help but wonder if the scenario playing out before them was part of some bigger artistic statement West was making. The more they waited, the more they questioned: Were the helicopters circling above the paparazzi or police or planted by West as a form of social commentary? Was the lone pair of pants with Adidas stripes on it a statement on his partnership with the brand or a last minute toss-in? Was the fainting and sitting down representative of disillusionment? Did the fact that the island once housed an insane asylum and prison actually mean something?

You could add as many layers to the show as you wanted, but West, who ran down the runway with a smile at the end of it all, was the only one with the answers.

For a far more scathing review, read Jezebel’s thoughts on the show.

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Fendi Celebrates its 90th Anniversary

Haute couture week may have come to a close in Paris, but Fendi is keeping the party going by celebrating a big birthday at one of Rome’s most historic locations.

In honor of the label’s ninetieth anniversary, the Roman brand staged a fashion show called “Legends and Fairy Tales” at the Trevi Fountain.

Models of the moment, including Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid, walked across a custom plexiglass runway, which was built over the fountain so it would appear as if they were walking on water. As for the clothes, creative director Karl Lagerfeld sent out transparent dresses covered in floral motifs, embellished knits, fur-trimmed coats, embroidered capes, and covetable ankle boots.

fendi runway

The show also played into the rich, cinematic history of the city and the Trevi Fountain. Arguably, the most glamorous scene in Italian film history is the one in which actress Anita Ekberg wades through the Trevi Fountain in Federico Fellini’s 1960 film La Dolce Vita. The Fendi show played film scores from Nino Rota, who composed all of the music in Fellini’s films.

“A fashion show in Rome at the Trevi Fountain is the best way to celebrate Fendi’s 90 years’ anniversary as it expresses our roots and DNA while transmitting daring creativity and craftsmanship,” said Pietro Beccari, Fendi chairman and CEO, in a statement. “The Trevi Fountain is a unique place, and it represents Fendi preservation of values, tradition and historic patronage while looking towards the future.”

fendi trevi fountain

We all know Lagerfeld loves to make a splash with over-the-top fashion shows. In 2007, the designer made history by staging a Fendi show on the Great Wall of China, which reportedly cost $10 million to produce.

Fendi jumped on board to restore the Trevi Fountain in 2013. The iconic fashion house reportedly spent $2.4 million on the 17-months-long renovation, which culminated in the fountain’s reopening last November. This is the first time a fashion event has ever been staged on the landmark.

The show was followed by a lavish dinner party at Villa Borghese’s Pincio Terrace, which boasts some of the city’s most beautiful views. Happy birthday, Fendi, I can’t wait to see what you do for your 100th!

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