Marchesa designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig like to filter their vision of femininity through a rose-tinted lens, and today they opened their show on a classically pretty pink note. The overarching inspiration for the collection started with sunrise, and the colors that appear in the sky from dusk to dawn; a paint box of lilac, light blue, and blush pink that was touched at times with an iridescent finish. Aside from the glamorous one-shouldered Grecian dress in shiny gold lamé, the mood was more golden-hour than mid-day sun, a much quieter palette than the neon streaks we’ve seen coursing through the New York collections thus far.
Then again, Chapman and Craig aren’t the kind of designers to follow trends. Their brand of unapologetically frothy, more-is-more eveningwear is planted in the realm of Disney princess fantasy, a world inhabited by their Hollywood fans and friends. With the Emmy Awards tomorrow in Los Angeles, their designs are likely to take the spotlight again. Fashioned with layers of tulle, fringing, and dripping embellishments, the dresses on the runway were laden with attention-grabbing details. If those looks might appear OTT in real life, the 3-D floral finishings and mille-feuille confectionary would likely work well framed by the 360 camera technology being used on the red carpet these days. Whether the most dramatic full-skirted looks and trains would fit into anything other than a stretch limo, though, is another story entirely.