As Monique Lhuillier prepared to celebrate her 20-year anniversary, she was feeling a sense of nostalgia, according to the show notes for her spring collection. Naturally, this made her revisit some of her signature silhouettes — but it also led her to explore a darker side. Looks from the former were far more abundant, as Lhuillier started her runway presentation with a floral embroidered jumpsuit with black ribbon belt and a blush embroidered gown with tulle bow straps — very familiar territory for the designer, whose love of fairy-tale eveningwear often leads her into romantic territory. She rooted Spring in a cotton candy palette. A teensy mink jacket was dyed a milky lavender; tulle, Chantilly lace, and chiffon gowns came fast and frequent in minty green, pale pink, and blue. That fantasy-princess element was also present elsewhere, as tiny heart sequins embroidered here and there, or bejeweled embellishments at the collar and down the back.
She did venture to more carnal places with a revealing allover oversize-sequin slip in rose gold, a deep-V Deco-inspired white and silver cutout-shoulder gown and a glitzy coatdress with a black sash belt, proving that nice and naughty are simply different sides of the same fashion coin.