Marissa Webb RTW Spring 2017

Marissa Webb doesn’t seek deep sources of inspiration when it comes to her collections. Webb dresses what she knows—and that is the women around her, specifically the “modern New York woman,” as she stated backstage, after a show whose pieces had a metropolitan polish. Remember the Glastonbury look that was popular during the 2000s—a worn-in, oversize army jacket thrown over a tired-looking baby-doll dress? (Kate Moss wore that muddied festival ensemble time after time). Here there was a city-appropriate incarnation of the field jacket, now elevated by way of a hip-length crop and sculpted, rounded sleeves, styled over a print dress that was pertly buttoned at the neck.

Ruffles played a clever role. Sure, predictably, in some instances they were feminine, like on an amber charmeuse blouse that had ruffles scaling the arms. But when added to a blazer, the wide ruffles went as far as to add a clever structure; they stuck up high, coursing down the sleeves, giving off an air of broad executive power.

Webb also played with waist heights. Low-slung cream trousers in silk became an instant closet staple that could seamlessly go from the boardroom to cocktail hour. The high-waisted leather cropped pants are something to look out for: The ankles had sets of grommets fastened by laces, and a fastened belt caused the extra fabric to bloom upward and gather unevenly past the waist, perfectly flattering the silhouette. It’s not just New York women who’ll love that.

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