Tadashi Shoji debuted his Fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection at New York Fashion Week on Thursday, and it was full of classically bold moments.
The 37-look collection featured 35 dresses of varying lengths and silhouettes, textures and colors, with the predominant theme being the celebration of all women’s freedom to dress how they please. In Tadashi’s world, there’s something for every woman.
Jewel tones dominated the show, with deep blues, greens and pinks catching the eyes of the smartphone-wielding crowd at Spring Studios. The designer wasn’t afraid to play around with sheer fabrics, either, which provided a slew of lingerie-inspired evening wear that turned up sexiness in his collection this season.
Perhaps most notably, the designer delivered no less than 12 all-black looks on the runway, which called to mind last month’s Golden Globes when everyone hit the red carpet wearing black in honor of the #MeToo movement sweeping Hollywood.
After the show, Shoji spoke to Reuters and explained that his “bold” and “unapologetic” collection was inspired by the #MeToo and #TimesUp movements and explained how women should be able to dress however they please without worrying about being harassed by men.
Erin Fetherston took a trip around the world for fall, a trek through different cultures and inspirations that were then mixed and matched in a chic, feminine collection. Moroccan references echoed in the color palette with warm spice tones, such as saffron, paprika and turmeric, as well in rich prints that were reminiscent of opulent Indian fabric and shoes inspired by North African pointed slippers. These ingredients helped Fetherston create a charming wardrobe, filled with breezy maxidresses and tunics embellished with tassels that were paired with wide-leg pants for an international globetrotter. The abundance of charming ethnic details were balanced by more urban pieces, such as a relaxed velvet suit and a ribbed turtleneck sweater worn with knitted pants. Despite the lineup’s Seventies’ Bohemian attitude, Fetherston avoided any nostalgic feeling and managed to translate her inspirations into an elegant collection for modern women.
Marchesa designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig like to filter their vision of femininity through a rose-tinted lens, and today they opened their show on a classically pretty pink note. The overarching inspiration for the collection started with sunrise, and the colors that appear in the sky from dusk to dawn; a paint box of lilac, light blue, and blush pink that was touched at times with an iridescent finish. Aside from the glamorous one-shouldered Grecian dress in shiny gold lamé, the mood was more golden-hour than mid-day sun, a much quieter palette than the neon streaks we’ve seen coursing through the New York collections thus far.
Then again, Chapman and Craig aren’t the kind of designers to follow trends. Their brand of unapologetically frothy, more-is-more eveningwear is planted in the realm of Disney princess fantasy, a world inhabited by their Hollywood fans and friends. With the Emmy Awards tomorrow in Los Angeles, their designs are likely to take the spotlight again. Fashioned with layers of tulle, fringing, and dripping embellishments, the dresses on the runway were laden with attention-grabbing details. If those looks might appear OTT in real life, the 3-D floral finishings and mille-feuille confectionary would likely work well framed by the 360 camera technology being used on the red carpet these days. Whether the most dramatic full-skirted looks and trains would fit into anything other than a stretch limo, though, is another story entirely.